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Bathed in moonlight and swollen with floodwater, the rush of Haw Creek Falls in Arkansas announces the return of spring. To minimize maintenance, there are no bridges along the trail. In some places you can hop from rock to rock, says Tim Ernst, one of the trail pioneers. In others you have to get your feet wet and feel how cold the water really is.

Like curtains drawn across the landscape, the walls of the Toad River Valley yield to untracked forests and pure lakes in northeastern British Columbia. Years of compromise and careful planning defined the enormous Muskwa-Kechika Management Area here, where competing interests

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